Porto part II &around


Just a few steps from Ribeira’s lively waterfront is an unassuming green square called Jardim do Infante Dom Henrique. With an even more unassuming statue.

So unassuming, in fact, that I don’t remember it at all. But Uncle Google just informed me that it’s Henry the Navigator. The one and only, who pretty much kickstarted Portugal’s maritime empire, colonial power and Age of Discovery. Very fitting place for his statue, as he’s surrounded by three buildings that, for me, ideally portray Portugal’s grandeur past.

Bolsa Palace has got to be the first. Former Stock Exchange and a representation of power for Commercial Association of Porto. Ironically, it was built in 19th century, not long before the whole country was declared bankrupt. Twice.

While that is interesting and all, it were the pictures I saw online that made me wanna visit it in the first place. And shoot some myself. Unfortunately, our guide – a guided tour is the only way to see Bolsa Palace – didn’t share my enthusiasm for running around looking for angles and staying behind the group. Not sure why;)


Few steps away from Bolsa Palace, built only around 40 years later, and yet completely different style and a representation of iron period in Europe is Mercado Ferreira Borges. Surprisingly elegant, with its original red construction and modern grey elements inside.

The last of three previously mentioned buildings is Igreja de São Francisco. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures, as photography is prohibited there. But I do have a special message to the lovely malcontents I met there: yes, I also have seen something like this before. Compañía de Jesús in Quito, to be exact. But a lavish, completely gold-covered church interior is still not something you see every day. Think how many earrings that would make.


There is another building worth wandering into – Photography Museum located in a former prison with vintage mini-cameras, thick stone walls, barred windows and dark corridors. Where around every corner it’s just as likely to see elegant conference room in lovely light colors, girl in an optimistic polka dot blouse staring at you from a picture or a mysterious boy with sad eyes.


Being so close to Atlantic ocean, it seemed a shame to miss it. To get to Foz do Douro I took the shamelessly touristy old tram from just in front of the previously mentioned lavish gold church. While pretty and old – the tram I mean – nothing beats Lviv’s falling apart vehicles moving at snail’s speed.

To even things out, after some walking around and a spectacular slip&fall on a slimy pier that left me with a bloody hole in my hand and dripping water with every step, I took a completely not touristy Flor de Gas across Douro River. It’s a small boat taxi to Albufeira that allows you to admire the estuary from a different perspective, while cooling yourself in a lovely breeze with just a hint of burning gas powering the engine.

My goal for that day was to finish it, and my whole trip to Porto, with a sunset in Miramar. Another place I found scrolling through pictures of Porto, this time on Instagram. An idyllic little town a short train ride from Porto (though from Albufeira, the way I went, it took some asking around) with a picturesque tiny chapel sitting on top of a tiny rock hill, which itself occupies a place where the cold Atlantic waters reach sun-heated sand on Miramar’s beach.


As this is the end of my trip and my choice of pictures (as I took 1,400 of them, believe me, it wasn’t an easy choice), I leave you with a quick glance at often slightly run down, but definitely not lacking in character, Porto’s streets. And a tip: if you have to walk down just one, Rua do Almada is a solid choice. A close second for me would be a seemingly deserted Rua do Bonjardim.


Porto: Pretty. Windy.


That’s exactly how I can describe Porto – it really was very pretty. And it was also very windy. What I imagined it to be was the azulejos city on hills. Special explanation for The Clueless: azulejos are those painted, glazed tiles associated with Portugal, classical version being white and blue. In other words – Porto seemed like a perfect place to test my new old camera.



There’s this old saying going around: “Porto works, Coimbra studies, Braga prays and Lisbon has fun.” Porto works? Yeah, right. It seems more like it’s leeching off of tourists. Maybe it used to work, when it was an important port for Douro valley wine trade and a starting point for Prince’s Henry the Navigator world discovery ambitions. To be fair – those huge steel bridges, copyright by Eiffel and his protege-whose-name-no-one-remembers, are impressive and give the city somewhat industrial flair. The life under the bridge seems pretty real too.



For some magical reason (new Prima Aprilis holiday?) Porto was filled with tourists. And photographers – which was great. I got to snoop on other people’s work. Kinda like free workshop. There was one place that didn’t feel so touristy though – the old market hall and surrounding old shops. The falling off paint, wet walls, farmer market’s trash and shops working on a basis: tell what you want -> get a piece of paper with a number on it -> pay and go.



Speaking of azulejos, the most famous ones are in the hall of Sao Bento railway station (built on the spot of a burned-down 16th century Benedictine monastery) and Igreja do Carmo (the most Instagrammable wall in Portugal). Curiously, the word azulejos has Arabic origins, at first was used only for North African tiles and Seville in Spain was the center of their production. And yet – they are mainly associated with Portugal. Wider use? More advanced technology? Better marketing?



There’s more going on on Porto’s walls (and not only walls) than just azulejos. When it comes to street art, what fueled the creativity and growth was… surprise, surprise – a rebellion. The Street Tailors described it a whole better than I ever could. In short: a stiff former mayor created the Anti-Grafitti Squad. And when they covered one of the famous artist’s work, people in protest started painting one straight black line and a sentence: “Continua a pintar” (keep painting) on those walls cleaned by the squad. Over and over again.

As for “Quem es, Porto?”, that’s an art project by Locomotiva – 3,000 tiles with Porto’s residents’ answers to just that question: Who is Porto?



Next time – tram-huggers, what else is going on on Porto’s streets and where to pray at the beach (or, you know, just stare at the picturesque chapel at sunset).